Hotel wood takayama

In the old streets of the city of Takayama, known as  ‘Little Kyoto’ for its resemblance to the ancient capital, Hotel Wood’s unique design paradoxically stands out amongst the dark wooden façades of the traditional, Edo period merchant homes, yet at the same time feels perfectly in place. Although most modern buildings in Takayama are found on the edge of the city so as to preserve the charm of the old township, Hotel Wood seamlessly sits within. Built in 2019, Hotel Wood emphasises the old and new - merging the philosophy of Zen with a nod to its regional woodworking culture encompassed within a contemporary space. 

Known as the largest city in Japan by area, Takayama spans across 2178 hectares, its size comparable to that of Tokyo. Forest covers 92% of a land rich in mountains, rivers, and valleys. The area, known as the Hida region, received its name as a lasting legacy from a time before the country was split into prefectures, formerly making up part of the Hida province. Whilst there is no official demarcation of borders, Hida is considered to consist of Takayama and three other municipalities: Hida, Gero and Shirakawa.

The Hida area has been deeply connected with the surrounding mountains since ancient times – locals long believing them as a place where kami (sacred spirits) are said to reside, blessing Hida with an abundance of natural resources, such as plentiful forests. The Hida townsfolk began working with trees over 1300 years ago, crafting and creating a thriving commercial industry that is one of the most well-known in Japan, the traditions of which are still being nurtured today. 

Hotel Wood’s incorporation of Hidasugi (a type of domestic lumber so named for its growth within the Hida region) latticework, constructed in the neighbouring town of Gero, are a few of its impressive features that pay homage to traditional Hida architecture. The usage of Hidasugi was an important factor in the building of Hotel Wood – not only is the material soft and warm and easy to process – but it is said that Hidasugi possess characteristics imparted by growth within the area’s unique seasonal climate: thicker annual growth rings from cold winters and heavy snowfall creating stronger and more durable lumber compared to those of a similar age grown further south. By using Hidasugi, the benefits of local production for local consumption can be obtained – creation of a circular economy, reduced transportation times and fuel meaning lower carbon emissions – whilst also perpetuating the rich woodworking culture in the area.  

Hotel Wood respects tradition in a number of other ways, not just in its use of local materials and carpenters, but with a deep blue noren (curtains hung at the door of a business) beckoning guests inside. In the reception, a timber wall – which was designed and plastered by Hasado Syuhei, a local craftsman with a worldwide reputation – leads into a large, welcoming lounge space. The design of which was created around a central idea inspired by irori ( traditional sunken fireplaces) so that the encircling furniture splays out from a central point and imbues a homely atmosphere. The lounge radiates warmth. Floor-to-ceiling shoji (screened doors made of paper) shade the space from the majority of the strong summer sun’s almost unbearable heat – yet allow for the rays to permeate just enough to bask everything in a soft glow. Shadows dance on the stone floors through gaps in the framework, reminding me of the flicker of flames in irori. The space is filled with Hidasugi furniture by Kashiwa Mokkou, their tables and chairs being peculiar to the local area. Intricate latticework stretches across the entirety of the ceiling, showcasing the complexity and artistry of the woodworking tradition that the town is so famed for.

Breakfast is a seasonal affair, with local ingredients, like the Takayama specialties: pickled red beets, komodofu (a type of tofu made by wrapping in a mat of woven straw, and boiling in soup), and grated Japanese yam. Later in the evening, guests can enjoy taste-testing local sake from breweries within the hotel’s vicinity and in spring, the lounge opens its exterior doors to turn into a café from which guests are afforded the perfect view of intricate floats of the Takayama Spring Festival.

Each room in Hotel Wood strives to achieve a clean and minimalistic look, whilst also being replete with luxury amenities. Their large public bath is dark and sophisticated, brimming with woody aromas, allowing guests to relax the mind and body after a day of travel or exploration of the town. Bedrooms, like the lounge, are detailed with pieces from Kashiwa Mokkou and feature a raised tatami area for sleeping on futon. Carved wooden wall hangings inscribed with words associated with Zen teachings are above the beds, illuminated by the soft light infiltrating through shoji.  

Hotel Wood does an incredible job of blending subtle yet profound details, whilst doing the utmost to preserve and promulgate the cultural traditions and history of the area. Local staff handpick and arrange tours, working to build experiences centred around various themes of nature, culture, or dining. Occasionally, Hotel Wood hosts solo exhibitions of the works of local writers and artists.

Contemporary, cool, and dedicated to craftsmanship – Hotel Wood is, quite simply, a treasure in Takayama.